
As a travel writer, I’m on the road a lot. My favorite kind of trip is one that’s planned by a professional who knows the best places to see and stay; led by an expert who adds context and insight; and includes a small group of like-minded travelers who enjoy sharing the experience.
A Sacred Earth Journeys trip, The Greek Mysteries: Myths, Magic, and Miracles—The Heroes and Heroines, Gods and Goddesses, Sacred and Healing Sites of Ancient Greece checked all these boxes. Led by Phil Cousineau, a scholar and expert on myth in the modern world, this escape to Greece provided a perfect combination of learning, friendship, and spiritual contemplation.
EATING IN ATHENS
First things first: The Greek people love to eat, and they know how to do it right. Cell phones are out of sight as diners engage in leisurely, animated conversations with friends, savoring everything from classic Greek salads to iconic moussaka and souvlaki. My favorite was a regional dessert called galaktoboureko: a knock-your-socks-off semolina custard-filled, filo-based delight.

FINDING ANTIQUITIES IN VERGINA
One of our most fascinating stops on this Aegean adventure was Vergina—Greece’s equivalent to Egypt’s Valley of the Kings. Situated in northern Greece, it is home to the impressive ruins of the Palace of Aigai, built by King Phillip II—and the place where his son Alexander (later to become “the Great”) took the throne in 336 BCE. The nearby museum houses beautiful artifacts found in the ancient royal necropolis, which was recently declared a UNESCO site.

from the 4th century BCE.
EXPLORING MYTHOLOGY IN ANCIENT MYCENEA
The Bronze Age Myceneans were known for engineering, architecture, works of art, an early writing system, and their advanced military infrastructure. (Homer cast them as the besiegers in The Illiad.) Many of my fellow travelers were inspired as we contemplated mythology and visited ancient sites. Exploring the Treasury of Atreus (constructed 1300-1250 BCE), with its imposing entryway, monumental architecture, tomb-like interior, and resonant acoustics was an unforgettably moving experience.

DISCOVERING THE BIRTHPLACE OF DIONYSUS
Since I was in the stomping grounds of the God of Wine, visiting Achaia Clauss was imperative. Founded in 1861, it’s Greece’s oldest winery and produces the famous Mavrodaphne wine, a spicy, port-like red that has been used in Catholic masses for more than a century.
The 1855 Vintage sits in a huge barrel and is dedicated to Her Royal Highness Princess Alexandra, whose sister Elizabeth was the first person to sign the winery’s guest book and is credited with starting the world’s winery tourism business. (I was particularly interested to learn this after interviewing Allison Pataki, author of the New York Times best-selling novel “The Accidental Empress,” in which Alexandra and Elizabeth become integral parts of Hapsburg court.)

a carving of Dionysus on a huge wine barrel.
VISITING THE NAVEL OF THE EARTH
Ancient Greeks considered Delphi, where the Oracle resided for more than 1,200 years, to be the omphalos, or center of the world—and I was thrilled to visit the Delphi archaeological site, one of the best places to see Greek temples and ruins. Phil recounted the history of the site and prepared us for our own symbolic encounter with the Oracle at the Temple of Apollo. A steep hike rewarded us with the opportunity to wander among the remains of temples, terraces, and treasuries.

My favorite part of this trip to Greece, in addition to Phil’s insights, was the access he provided to scholars, artists, archaeologists, and other local experts I would never have been able to meet if I’d been traveling on my own. Here archaeologist Spyros Couvaras, who grew up on Ithaca and is now based there, tells our group about the ancient bronze tripods Odysseus is said to have hidden in a cave on the island.

after Odysseus’ supposed lifetime.
Visiting these ancient Greek sites was a perfect myth-and-history vacation! If experiencing a land of antiquities this way sounds like your cup of ouzo, check out Phil’s next Greek tour, The Wisdom of the Odyssey: Life Lessons from Homer’s Epic.
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Photography by Laurie McAndish King
Laurie McAndish King is a travel writer, photographer, podcaster, and myth-lover. Her award-winning collection of travel tales, An Elephant Ate My Arm, includes two stories set in Greece: “My Extra-Virgin Experiment” and “Dreaming the Minotaur.”
Website: laurieking.com
Facebook: @LaurieMcAndishKing
LinkedIn: @lauriemcandishking
Connect with Phil Cousineau through his website: https://www.philcousineau.net/

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